A Festival of Trad
Montagu Outdoor Adventures, in partnership with SA Mountain Magazine and Black Diamond SA, welcomes you to the inaugural reopening of one of South Africa’s iconic trad climbing venues.
The whole of Lost World is comprised mostly of the very best quatzitic sandstone – beautiful orange and brown walls soaring up into the ever-blue skies. The rock is made for trad climbing – multiple, long aesthetic crack lines cleave the walls offering perfect opportunities for climbing and protection.
The main wall boasts a plethora of fine crack climbs up to 4 and 5 pitches long, like the excellent Jaywalker, the first ever route at Lost World, Remain in Light and Titanium Trip. The smaller crags scattered around the kloof also offer superb single and 2-pitch routes, like Find the Cost of Freedom, put up solo by AdK and graded 16 at the time – now upgraded to 19, and still demanding for that grade. Other short classics include Heart of Gold, Improbabilty Drive, A Sea of Existential Teddy Bears, and Stone Magic, and the absolute uber classic of the crag, Nuclear Waste, an exquisite 25-metre jam fest. Opened at grade 19, it has been raised to 20, but be prepared for solid climbing at that grade, and if you can’t jam, well . . .
But the main event in Lost World is the incomparable Wall of Darkness, a stunning dark and brooding wall 30 metres in height, and curving outward as you near the top, making sure the pump remains right until you clip the anchors. The absolute classic of the wall and also regarded as one of the most revered test pieces in South Africa, is the outstanding Technicolour Darkness. A line which takes an elegant and unrelenting curving crack for the full 30 metres of the wall. There are seven routes up the wall, all hard, some scary and all put up by AdK in his teens.
So come prepared!
And AdK will be joining us for the Revival, and will tell us all about how it was in the old days, discovering and climbing in the magical Lost World, in his talk/presentation on Saturday night.
Most of the strategic anchors have been replaced with new double bolt anchors, and there is a new dedicated guidebook especially produced for the Lost World Revival Festival.
A little bit of history
As most of us know, Lost World has sadly been closed to climbing for many years. About 10 years ago, the owners at the time entered into negotiations with climbers to do a trial run, allowing climbers into the crag for the day, under certain conditions. One of these conditions was to be out at a certain time in the afternoon. Unfortunately some climbers chose to ignore this request and came out late. In short, this pissed the owner off, so Lost World was lost again, and this also ruined all future negotiations to “try again”.
The land was sold again, but Lost World remained closed for a further 6 years. Then in 2021 the climbing gods smiled down upon us, and the current owner, Charles Bailey made contact with Brenda and Toni to discuss matters on marijuana farming. They in turn facilitated a meeting between myself and Charles to enter into negotiations on how climbing at Lost World could be reintroduced. Over a few meetings we came to an agreement that suited both parties.
How it works now
Lost World is NOT open to casual climbing in any shape or form, not even if you book to stay there in their luxury accommodation.
Climbing is ONLY permitted at Lost World during an organised event or meet, where all the rooms are booked out and then only the people staying at Galenia (Lost World) and participating in the event are allowed access to climb (with a few exceptions, like guest speakers, etc).
Please DO NOT attempt to climb at Lost World outside of these specific arrangements, as this will seriously jeopardise future access, and will probably mean the permanent closure of one of the countries most hallowed trad venues.
When is the Lost World Revival Festival
Saturday 11 to Sunday 12 September.
The Climbing
Saturday: First light to 6.30pm
Sunday: First light to 6.30 pm
Please make 100% sure that you are back at the lodge before dark in the evening!
The Accommodation
Galenia, which is basically at the entrance to Lost World, is a 5 star luxury resort. It comprises of 10 luxury rooms with en suite and private veranda. Each room with a double bed (two of the rooms have two single beds). This means the resort can sleep 20 people. There is also a huge main house, where there is a bar and lounge and dining facilities. And a huge outside veranda for chilling.
Montagu locals who are participating in the festival are not required to sleep at Galenia.
Food, drink and dining, etc
Saturday morning: Buffet breakfast, etc at the main house from 6.30am onwards.
Lunch at the crags: Everybody brings their own
Saturday Evening: A 3-course dinner will be prepared and served by Galenia. It is a compulsory dinner (vegetarian and other dietary requirements will be offered)
Sunday morning: Buffet breakfast, etc at the main house from 6.30am onwards.
Lunch at the crags: Everybody brings their own.
There is a full bar in the Main House, for your account, and mini fridges in the individual rooms, also for your account.
There is a R50 corkage per bottle for any wine brought and consumed on the premises.
The Cost
The cost for Montagu locals:
R600 for Saturday and R350 for Sunday.
For this you will get:
• As much climbing in Lost World on Saturday and Sunday
• Full use of the beautiful main house for relaxation, dining and for event proceedings
• Full buffet and hot breakfast to order
• A 3-course dinner on Saturday night
• Black Diamond spot prizes for some
Booking, Indemnities and Payment
Please go to the booking page and fill out the registration and indemnity forms and make payment by EFT. 50% deposit secures your booking. The balance to be paid by latest 15 August.
NB. No animals allowed.
Final Note
This is the inaugural festival, and in a way it is also a trial festival. If everything works out and the owners are happy with all the proceedings, then this can become an annual event, and even a bi-annual event if possible.